I toed the line of the MudCrew Arc 50 back in 2020 after being a long admirer of this race. I was undertrained, naive and completely underestimated just how challenging it was. I made it as far as 28 miles before missing the cut-off at St Ives and was subsequently timed out of the race. This experience triggered something in me and left me with a hunger to return and finish what I had started.
For those unfamiliar with the race, it is described in the event guide:
"The Arc50 is a 50mile footrace with competitors running in challenging winter conditions. The Arc50 is a point-to-point race from The Minack Theatre, Porthcurno to Porthtowan taking in 50miles of stunning and dramatic Cornish coast-path. By passing Land’s End it will complete an Arc around the extreme south west tip of Cornwall. The race has a strict 15.5 hour cut-off with additional checkpoint and safety cut-offs on route. Competitors will need the ability and experience of being self-sufficient for long periods of time in potentially extreme weather conditions".
Pre-race
Training commenced in earnest in October 2020 after lockdown cancelled events and afforded me the time to properly rehab a foot injury which had plagued me for the past 2 years. I took the guesswork out of my training and got a coach to ensure I was as prepared as I could possibly be. I also recced the remaining 22 miles of the course so I'd know what to expect after St Ives. Then another lockdown struck and the 2021 event was cancelled in late December.
In someways this may have been a blessing. 2021 ended up being a year of racing all of the previous years cancelled events and training consistently. I became more experienced at ultramarathon distances completing four 50km races in the first half of the year and stepped up the distance completing the 43 mile St Peter's Way Ultramarathon. This race was a turning point and gave me the belief that I was ready to take on 50 miles.
In October we visited Cornwall for our wedding anniversary as we do every year. I planned to use some of the week to run and hike the challenging Pendeen Watch to St Ives section that had previously caught me out. However, on the first day of our holiday I sprained my ankle and fell whilst walking on an easy walk along the South West Coast Path. My ankle turned out to be fine but the 2 inch hole in my knee required 6 stitches and forced me to park any plans I had for running.
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| Coast path 1 - Emily 0 |
After 4 weeks of not running I'd healed enough to get back on track with my training. My biggest challenge living in Essex was always going to be how I prepare for the hills. I managed to get out on a few long weekend runs to either Wendover Woods or Box Hill in Surrey otherwise I was using a treadmill to do some hill hiking whilst wearing a 6kg weight vest. I did as much strength and conditioning as my training plan would allow in an attempt to get my legs hill strong and avoid overuse injuries such as Iliotibial Band Syndrome (ITBS) cropping up during the race. Knowing I'd be using running poles, I did some conditioning of my triceps (ski-erg and banded tricep extensions) in the hope to avoid the elbow pain I'd got in the 2020 event.
Race day
Race day eventually arrived, with 2 years of waiting the stakes felt pretty high but I was strangely calm. I registered and had my kit checked on the Friday evening so I could have everything packed and organised the night before. Saturday morning the alarm went off at 4:45am, I'd barely slept in anticipation and I just wanted to be out on the coast path running. After being fitted for our trackers, we were bussed from the Eco Park in Porthtowan to the start at the Minack Theatre in Porthcurno. I usually hate this sort of journey as it highlights just how far you've got to run, however I was chatting the whole way to the person sat next to me which provided a welcome distraction.
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| Pre-registration hoping I'd be back at this spot sometime Saturday evening |
Once dropped off by the bus we had a 10 min walk up the steep, narrow lanes to the Minack Theatre. The darkness was just lifting at this point to reveal a grey and windy day, though fortunately it was still quite mild (for January). We had approximately an hour to wait for the start which gave me the chance to have something to eat and make the necessary visits to the toilet. Whilst it was a grey day, Porthcurno beach was looking absolutely stunning. I spent some time soaking up the atmosphere and views as I knew once the race started it would be a case of getting my head down and focussing.
We collected at the bottom of the theatre and a few words were said in the build up before the drums sounded and the race build up began. We were played out to Led Zeppelin and clouds of blue smoke from flares filled the air. I'd learned my mistake from the previous year to position myself not too far from the steps as to not end up right at the back, however in some confusion the steps were not the ones I was expecting but quickly realised I could make my exit up a different set and join there main queue leaving the Minack.
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| With Lindley waiting for the race to start |
Once out on the coast path the atmosphere felt quite fraught with some jostling for space and not wanting to hold up quicker runners on the narrow sections of single track. I did my best to let people pass where possible and tried myself not to get stuck behind someone running at a slower pace even though it made me feel awkward asking to pass. At this stage it was all about banking as much time as I could to help me with the cut-offs later on. It wasn't long before my waterproof jacket was off and despite being blasted with a headwind I was building quite a sweat up. In my hurried panic I managed to spill the contents of my pack on the path whilst trying to stuff my jacket back in, I was desperately grabbing bits of precious kit that could be needed later on and trying to prevent them from either rolling or blowing away in the wind.
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| Flying feet! |
I can confirm that I still dislike the great big slabs of granite that have been laid along the path leaving Lands' End, it seemed like my feet were just the right size to slip between the gaps and the risk of tripping or spraining my ankle left me seeking out the grass or dirt path. Luckily this didn't go on for too long.
Sennen Cove took me a little by surprise, considering I'd been here before I think I must have run through with my eyes closed as I don't recall it being quite so beautiful! With it's wide golden beaches, I don't know why I've never surfed here, it's somewhere I will be returning to with my board when I am next visiting. The sand however was not so great to run on for a short section of the path, that stuff really saps the energy out of your legs!
The next crew meeting point was Cape Cornwall 11 miles in. The approach whilst downhill was really rough underfoot, there was a massive temptation to run it however the ruggedness of the underfoot conditions seemed almost ripe for breaking an ankle so I picked my moments to run carefully. After a lovely descent is a sharp ascent up to some steps before the carpark, there was me trying to pretend I was all fresh when I saw my crew but those steps totally got me! Again not much was needed, just a top up of fluids. To make our crew stops as efficient as possible, I'd got some spare bottles to save any faffing with refilling. It was a lot easier swapping empties for full ones and saved precious minutes. I picked up my running poles from this point knowing that the terrain was about to get a bit steeper.
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| Battling the hills and steps into Cape Cornwall |
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| Cape Cornwall (photo from a previous course recce) |
The 4 miles to Pendeen Watch soon passed and I was delighted to make it well ahead of the safety cut-off (and 11 minutes ahead of my 2020 time). I spent a moment here sorting myself out preparing for the long stretch to St Ives. It seemed like a good opportunity to eat some solid food so I stopped and ate a Marmite sandwich and grabbed a slice of pizza which I ate whilst running out of the checkpoint. I also filled my spare 500ml soft flask and popped it in the back of my pack with water so I had 1.5L on me in case extra was needed.
Pendeen Watch to St Ives is a remote 13 mile stretch of the course with little in the way of crew access points. The terrain is really gnarly with sections of boulder to navigate and is wet underfoot no matter the time of year. This section has the ability to make or break your race, it's all about beating the 5pm cut-off at St Ives. This was for me personally the least enjoyable part of the race, it really tests your mental resolve.
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| Tactical running pole usage |
The weather whilst dry for January seemed to make little difference to the ground conditions on this stretch. There were plenty of puddles and ankle deep sections of bog to wade through which made running at times tricky. Added to this, the puddles and bog hide the dangers underfoot so caution is required at times. I didn't expect it to be quite as wet so hadn't worn my Sealskinz waterproof socks which I regretted. Rather than waste time pussyfooting around the mud and puddles (lesson learnt from 2020) I just went straight through knowing that fresh socks and trainers awaited at St Ives.
The terrain is very technical and all concentration is required, at around 18 miles in I roll my ankle. It feels bad, it's the one I rolled in August on the RAT and again in October when I fell. I am angry at myself for not taping it as precaution. I walk for a bit and can feel the ankle starting to swell a little, I try a run and it feels ok. I think the swelling has given me enough stability for it to be ok, I decide I will get it strapped at St Ives. I am just grateful I have got my poles which will hopefully prevent me causing more damage. The poles whilst great were no match for the giant boulders dotted along the path, sometimes the poles helped steady my jump down and other times they just got in the way when full on scrambling was required.
For some perspective, it takes me 4.5 hours to complete the 13 mile stretch and this is with me moving the whole time! It's bleak and the landscape is featureless which makes it feel like it goes on and on. It was pretty lonely and I seemed to see the same couple of people periodically as we take it in turns to pass one another. I'm gutted that I forgot to pick up my earphones from Paul, instead I am singing an advert I saw on the TV and a song I last heard on the radio on repeat in my head over and over again. Whilst I had the extra weight of carrying an additional 500ml water, it was a good call as the warm weather had me feeling quite thirsty. I ran out of water here in 2020 and it just added to the misery. I keep hearing my coach's (Ronnie Staton) words echo in my head, move with purpose, do not stand still, be efficient and keep moving forwards. This mantra seems to keep me focussed.
I'd caught up with a group on 3-4 ladies and we chatted for a little while. It was lovely to finally have some company and reassurance about the impending cut-off. They're convinced St Ives is just around the corner but I don't dare let myself believe them too soon just in case. Then for the first time in around 12 miles there was a change in terrain and some sense of familiarity. It's only bloody St Ives!!! Time looks to be our our side as we approach, flat tarmac is something in this race I actually excel at so I thank the ladies for the company and step it up a gear to race the cut-off to the Guildhall.
Crowds of people lined the streets in St Ives clapping and cheering, I am filled with feelings of excitement and optimism rather than desperation and self-pity as I had when I was last here. I finally see some hi-vis jackets of the MudCrew Angels who take it in turns to guide and run me towards the Guildhall. I see Paul and he showers me in words of praise and encouragement. For me this may as well be my finish line, I feel like I have won the race and could cry! This moment is everything I've obsessed about for 2 years.
Paul hands me a bag with things we thought I might need at the Guildhall. I am conscious that I don't want to spend too long here. The theory is once past St Ives it's job done. However, chatting to another runner who was timed out at Godrevy in 2020 I asked why they think that happened and they blamed spending too long at St Ives enjoying the hospitality provided by the MudCrew Angels. My first priority is to get my mud soaked, grit filled shoes and socks changed. I's not really thought this through and wished I'd packed some baby wipes in this bag to clean my hobbit looking feet! I do my best to cover my feet in Vasaline to prevent in blisters which felt pointless considering the state of my feet going into clean socks. I put on an almost new pair of Hoka Evo Speedgoat knowing that the terrain is a lot smoother from hereon. I turn down the offer of food conscious that I don't want to waste time and I'm not overly hungry, refill my water bottles and crack on. I didn't bother getting my ankle strapped as it wasn't hurting and I'm conscious of not spending more time here than needed so I instead have a wee and wash my hands.
I'm out the door and on tarmac! I grab an apple off Paul which I eat on my walk out of St Ives. Aside a few steep hills, I run as much as I can of the next section. It's mostly good going on tarmac or hard packed dirt. I grabbed my earphones this time and popped on a playlist, I was feeling good but after beating one cut-off, I knew I'd another one to make at 8pm at Godrevy Point. It wasn't long before darkness descended and the head torch was out. I'd upgraded my head torch to the Petzl Swift RL with 900 lumens of light which seemed to be doing a good job of illuminating the way.
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| Path from Carbis Bay (photo from previous course recce) |
The miles tick along nicely when I pop out at Lelant. Paul is there with some food knowing I'd not eaten much. I grab a sausage roll and slice of pizza. I bite the sausage roll and chew, chew and chew some more. It's just moving around my mouth and I can't swallow it. Turns out pastry is a bad idea after 30 miles, there's just not enough saliva to swallow it. The remainder of sausage roll gets fed to the hedge. I start on the pizza, a bit easier to eat but I am still not enjoying it. It's at that point I realise how sick I feel, I'd possibly left it too long to attempt to eat solid food.
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| Race snacks and supplies |
I walk along the pavement with the lights of Hayle in the distance feeling nauseous and a bit sorry for myself when I sense another runner behind me. A lady walks alongside me and starts chatting. I am pretty sure that I am rotten company but she seems persistent and hints that it's be really helpful to buddy up through the night and run with someone. For me I have never run into the night on unfamiliar path so I put up little resistance to the suggestion knowing that the tricky Dunes of Doom where looming.
We pass through Hayle and I see Paul, I try a sip of coke but do not attempt to eat any food. Sipping on water is just about all I can manage, I am feeling really sick by this point. My new found friend Julie and I continue on through Hayle to pick up the coast path again. I briefly stop to try and put on my waterproof jacket as the Cornish mizzle is getting quite persistent and I know to get soaked could lead to feeling cold now we'd lost daylight. Turns out Julie was pretty handy to have with me at this point, she's local so knows the course quite well and happens to have a 1900 lumen hand torch which will prove to be a lifesaver in the dunes.
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| Coast path markers on the 'Dunes of Doom' section (photo from previous course recce) |
I have recced the Dunes of Doom once before in daylight. I knew this was going to be tricky, the course is marked by granite stones which can be difficult enough to spot in daylight let alone night. Between my map on my watch and Julie's torch we get off to a good start. We catch up another group of ladies and about 7 of us team up to make it through the dunes. I am hating life right now, the sickness has got a real grip on me and my upper back is really aching. Julie knows some of the group so is chatting away. I secretly hope I can just drop off unnoticed as I feel like I need to be alone. The negative thoughts start creeping in and I am starting to tell myself that it really doesn't matter if I miss the 8pm cut-off at Godrevy. I start thinking of how good a hot shower and bed would feel and convincing myself that I'd done my best and the Arc had won once again. I tell the group to go on and leave me and try and convince them that I'd be fine on my own. Only to be told "no one is getting left behind, especially not in the dark". Bugger, this lot are too nice.
I'd given up looking at my watch and didn't care what the time was, then was asked to check navigation only my screen was black. My watch battery was dead, this was like the final straw, if it wasn't on Strava then it never really happened so what was the point! The group were working out how long we had until the cut-off, it sounded touch and go but I had decided it didn't matter as I was stopping anyway! We passed through Gwithian car park and I could see the light of Godrevy lighthouse so knew we were getting real close. Again, everything looked so much different in the dark that I couldn't tell how much further we had to go.
Then we were in there carpark with 8 minutes to spare. I think I tell Paul (and Lindley and Maxine who were also there) that I felt sick about 10 times! I ask Paul for a battery pack to plug my watch in and ask for a salt tablet. I've never used one before but must be worth a try, I feel cramp setting in from my calves, into my hamstrings and glutes whilst standing still. I slurp another Capri-Sun and contemplate what's ahead. Then I hear the words that give me some much needed encouragement, "you'll finish this even if you walk". I question a bit further as I'm not sure if this is just a tactic to get me out of the check point, apparently all I needed to do is walk 3mph and I can finish within the cut-off.
I figure that this is doable so leave with Julie. In some ways it was almost sealing fate, if I could walk then why run? We walked out to Godrevey Point and the path is really disorienting in the dark. Once the path flattens out we try a little jog only Julie's legs are not feeling too good so we drop back into a walk. Not having much luck with batteries I notice my head torch start flashing at me. I think I've been running with it on full beam which seems to have burned through the battery. The mandatory kit requirement (whilst possibly excessive on the 50) meant I have another spare head torch and spare batteries for both. Rather than faff with removing the battery I opt for my less powerful older Petzl headtorch.
Julie and I walked and chatted for hours, turns out we have a lot in common so we were not short of conversation. Paul tells me that he could always hear us coming before he could see us. We just carried on moving forwards knowing that every step was one closer to the finish line. I don't know whether the salt tablet I'd taken had anything to do with it but I no longer felt sick, is a miracle! I still didn't fancy eating but sucked on a gel and sipped the Mountain Fuel in my soft flask. It seems that liquid calories are working fine for my body and I wasn't feeling depleted of energy. I was really grateful for the company as it became apparent just how dark it was once out on the North Cliffs with no street lighting. Julie warned me about potential hazards along the way. It also got very quiet on the coast path with little sight of other head torches of red lights flashing on the back of other runners. It turns out quite a few retired at Gwithian.
This final section was pretty good going, not much technical terrain to navigate, just the 'Bitches'. The Bitches are 4 steep descents and ascents which feel hugely unnecessary at this stage of a race! Some of the steps on the Bitches feel like they were out there by a giant and I was thankful to have my poles so I could use some upper body to haul myself up them. We had two sets of the Bitches to negotiate before Portreath and another two before Porthtowan. On tired wobbly legs it was all about being safe, taking our time and not doing anything silly at this late stage of the race.
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| One of the 'Bitches' (photo from previous course recce) |
After the most hideous descent off the coast path we arrived in Portreath where Paul awaited. He'd managed to keep a little black cat hanging around to greet me. There was nothing needed over than some words of encouragement and off we set on the final leg of our journey. The tarmac uphill out of Portreath felt particularly long and brutal. We rejoined the coast path and knew it was just 4 miles until we'd be at the finish.
We started off with a steady walk, although there was a little doubt creeping in as to whether we'd be in before the cut-off. After the final two Bitches we were trying to work out how long it'd take us to get up and out of Porthtowan back to the Eco Park where the finish was. I honestly didn't know, in my head it didn't seem that far but then I'd not tried it at the end of a 50 mile race. After leaving the coast path there is quite a steep hike inland to the finish at the Eco Park. We then decided to put in a few short runs as to allow ourselves enough of a buffer, we'd not come this far to have to race against the clock and potentially miss out by seconds. This seemed to work as we arrived in Porthtowan, the coast path was over and it was mostly tarmac to the finish.
We continued marching the uphill sections and jogging when possible. The final part was the climb up the bank into the Eco Park. This felt exceptionally cruel especially when against the clock. The route was marked out with flags which was helpful although being dark there was no way of telling where the top was, it just continued going up, up and up more! Julie had been met by her crew here so I pushed on ahead and hiked with some determination until I eventually popped out in the Eco Park. I was running at this point and spotted the blue inflatable arch of the finish line and triumphantly ran in with my fists punching up to the sky. This moment I had dreamt of for 2 years, it has been my focus, it has been hundreds of hours and thousands of miles of training, this moment is everything I've lived for.
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| The final climb into the Eco Park at Porthtowan (photo from previous course recce) |
I honestly didn't know how I'd feel at the finish, as the medal was hung round my neck and Jane (race director) hugged me I thought I'd breakdown and be a blubbering mess but instead I think I was in shock. I had my photo taken and collected myself whilst chatting with Paul, Lindley and Maxine. I see Julie finish a couple of minutes later and I go and give her a congratulatory high five before she disappears.
I had spent January avoiding alcohol (not to be trendy) in the hope it'd give me a bit of a physical edge ahead of the race. I had visualised reaching the finish and getting a celebratory pint of cider which I sit beside the fire pit and drink. Funnily enough from 38 miles onwards I can literally think of nothing worse, not only that Paul informs me the bar closed 45 minutes ago. To be honest I am not fussed and will save my celebrations for when I get home and am better hydrated.
I finished in 15 hours and 11 minutes.
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| Happy to finally have a finishers medal around my neck |
Post race
It takes a good couple of days for it to sink in that I have completed the race and another couple of days before my legs recover from the 2200 metres of elevation! Overall I am feeling pretty good and have come away free from injury other than a slightly swollen ankle. I am also relieved to have not fallen over on the coast path this time and my knee is in tact other than a bruise from bashing it climbing over a boulder!
I was really touched to hear how many people had been following my slow moving dot on the tracker and apologies to my Mum and Sister who couldn't go to bed until they knew I'd finished. If I known they'd stay up I may just have run a little more in those final hours! Thank you to everyone who sent me words of encouragement and took an interest.
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| My awesome Mum supplied the post race Bolli |
Naturally my thoughts have turned to what next. I have a 46 mile ultramarathon in June (Summer Spine Sprint) but I am already weighing up whether I can jump up to the next milestone distance and challenge myself to run 100km, I am sure with the same dedication and training I gave to the Arc then it's within my reach. This is something that my training of the past 18 months has reaffirmed. With the right level of dedication and consistency, what once seemed impossible becomes a reality. Although life is starting to get busy again and I just don't know whether I want to give up as much of my free time that's required to train.
As for the Arc, I have settled my unfinished business, although being self critical of myself I do feel that I could have run a faster time. Whether I'll be back for the 2023 race is yet to be decided. For now I am just enjoying the recovery and lighter training weeks!
